The cable has a weatherproof grommet like the original Starlink power cable.

Adrian Kingsley-Hughes/ZDNET

Weird.

Trying more power banks made things a little better. I found that some power banks had no problems powering the dish, while others, for whatever reason (and I’m still investigating this), wouldn’t work despite having the appropriate power rating.

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Thinking that my cable might be the problem, I purchased a few more (after all, who doesn’t need half a dozen cables to power a single satellite dish?) and found that the cables make a difference. All the cables I tested were sold as capable of delivering the 100W the dish requires, but some are more effective than others.

Even with the right cable, it can be hit or miss, and that’s because cable length, the thickness of the cable, and the ambient air temperature at which the power bank operates all play a part.

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I also tried several USB-C wall chargers and had much greater success with them. Every charger I tried that could output 65W or more worked fine. It seemed far less cable-dependent. While this kind of defeats the purpose of replacing the supplied wall charger with a different one, it’s good to know as a backup.

I’ve tested quite a few power banks with the Starlink Mini, and while this shouldn’t be considered a comprehensive list, I found that Anker power banks, like the737, or the bigger, beefierSOLIX C300 DCcan give you about four hours of internet connectivity before it needs to be recharged. Smaller power banks will give you less runtime, while larger ones or power stations will give you much more.

You decide.

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